tisdag 30 september 2008
First things first, we will survive!
Second, most probably will he also survive!
In Gothenburg, there are a specific phenomena developed, by the crew that have innovated everything since the 1560s, which they call 'brave and humble'. The concept of 'brave and humble' is just as brilliant as necessary. You see, all members of the Gothenburg crew have different tasks, just like the ant society. If someone bolts a project, then he doesn’t have to remove loose rocks. If someone puts up a new route, then he can stop everyone else to climb it. If someone has suggested a grade, then another crew member has to suggest another grade. And so on.
At first we may appear stunned, but also later on. Let me give you an example. We heard about a crew member climbing an open but close, open but close, etc, project in the new super crag of the world of Mowgli, Baloo and all other stoned lifestyle shareholders. At first, the member was allowed to suggest a grade that he never has climbed before. In Gothenburg, it is forbidden (by high ethics and double standard morals) to suggest a grade, higher than your scorecard can motivate, especially to a new route. Of course, the god saw everything in the full sentence, and had to include young messiah to complete the equation. “New grade plus down grading equals correct grade”. You see, it is not possible to suggest the correct grade at once, since the obligatory 'brave and humble' down grading had to be performed, generating a great amount of extra news for site. From what might just appear as single news they can produce;
-“A brand new list of the hardest routes in Sweden; this has to be the one”
-“I felt strong on the crux sequence, someone must have chipped it”
-“Someone has been working on my project! Of course the project was not completely closed but they have to obey to my ethics.”
-“Overloaded web-space, this have to be documented with a couple of hundreds of high-resolution pictures, then hopefully, one of the lifestyle community non-training members will call me for an on-sight attempt?!”
-“Brave and humble, downgraded to the correct grade!”
Tomorrow are we going to discuss double standard, including chipping with old-farts that can’t take no for an answer, and god who have the right to both embrace and oppose chipping (Gothenburg crew member related facts).
söndag 28 september 2008
söndag 21 september 2008
Me going for the Haribos on top of Mumana:
Mikael being close on claiming thr FA on Return to Sender assis (finest boulder problem in norrland?!).
Not caught on tape (by me at least):
Mikaels quick ascents of Nirvana and Mumana on saturday (my batteries went dead midway on the last one).
Sofia Winsas repetition of Tjockholmen, Obbola, thereby doing the 2nd repetition of that boulder problem!!
torsdag 18 september 2008
What ever the cause, what we did must have been bad, considering our the nature of our punishment.. yep, that's right, we now share the IKSU climbing hall with the local Kendo club, every Thursday!
This is a short clip from yesterdays training at the wall.. turn up the volume, lean back and enjoy!
Speaking of Enjoy, to all of you that do not find your way to Ökberget, you can always try Hassemannens personal Enjoy the Silence simulator. Lets just say it is a little bit harder than the original!
onsdag 17 september 2008
tisdag 16 september 2008
To do list (Umeå's finest):
Black Russian (SS), 7B+
Dessertör (SS), 7C
Kalashnikov (SS), 7B
Okänd Soldat (SS), 7A+
Starship Troopers (SS), 7A+
White Russian (SS), 7B+
Black Russian, 7B uses identical holds as the sit start. Right hand in undercling and left hand in vertical crack.
Stjärnsoldat, 6B+ is the stand start to both 'Okänd Soldat' and 'Starship troopers'. Start with both hands in the large horisontal crack, approx. 1.5m above ground, i.e. the holds which joins the two problems.
Kallt krig, 7C+ sit start at 'Kalashnikov (SS)', traverses to the rigth and finishes with the complete 'Black Russian'. Broken hold will make repetitions harder. Probably 8A'ish?!
Please use this last image to sketch up your own projects/boulders. (just don't send it to us!)
Lat: N63 51 54 14
Long: E20 17 26 88
söndag 14 september 2008
Earlier that same day, Nirvana:
But, not all of our efforts where in vain (well, mine was..).
All in all it was a great weekend. Mikael and his crew came up from Östersund for two full days of bouldering. We all stayed in the local camping in a rented cottage (really cheap).
Conditions were perfect and the area was given a new nice line in Eastern Comfort, 6A.
The grades were adjusted a little bit in during these days. Deliverance seems to be a 7A (we can't find that easy beta it seems), while Soulweeper seems more of a 7A/7A+.
torsdag 11 september 2008
I guess I do not have to say it, but yes, it is the Lindmark brothers.. seem like Peter flew up here yesterday and Per was the first up the boulder problem now known as Era, quickly followed by Peter. Now, they just have to figure out what to do for the rest of the weekend.
Photo by Peter Lindmark