torsdag 30 oktober 2008


Seems like Per Lindmark doesn't let his bad knee stop him.

Today he closed the deal on his latest project, working name Amplified.

It is a rather long roof on small crimps and tiny crystals for the feet. The project would most likely have been sent earlier this season if it wasn't for the fact that several key hand and fot holds had broken of during time. He was forced to change beta several times and according to him, it got much harder from what it first seemed to be.

Per suggest the grade of the problem to be 8B, making it the second new 8B he has put up here in Umeå this season.

Good work!!

But the next time... do not run out of batteries for the camera!!

EDIT: Sorry for the bad english, I hope it is a little more clear now :)


Sorry for the delay in updates in the blog this week, but shit (or more like work) happens.

One thing that was far from shit was the boulder competition down in Sundsvall this weekend.

As usuall the boulder problems at Grönborg where good. I most point out my envy the quality of the easier problems.. I never seem to be able to get that much fun out of the easy problems I build myself.

The harder problems were also really good I must say, especially considering that most of them where built by people using no chalk and sneakers! Just being close on some of them made my day.

A big big up to all of the junior climbers from Umeå, they were climbing like on drugs! Annother big up to Petra who made it possible for the juniors to get down from Umeå to compete and also for winning the womens class (and being 5th total).

You can find the result list at the sundsvall climbing club homepage.

I'm still looking forward to see some photos from the comp (I forgot my camera in the car..).

Well.. now it is back to work.. but this weekend will be all climbing.. staring early tomorrow :)

fredag 24 oktober 2008

The Umeå Show goes south

Bodin and his Sundsvall crew are hosting a bouldering comp and (perhaps even better) a party!
TUS hope to return on sunday with a report from both!

onsdag 22 oktober 2008

Skravelsjö is closed

The chairman of the Umeå climbing club (UKHK) informed me today that Umeås best bouldering crag, Skravelsjö is now closed for climbers for the next couple of years.

Earlier this year the climbing club went out with a warning, that the access to the area was in danger. Sadly many of us didn't take this as serious as we should have.

After a season with, what it seems, no or little decline in activity in the area, the landowner has gotten in contact with the municilap council and given us the following ultimatum:

Stay out of the area for a couple of years to allow for the vegetation to recover or face lawsuit and a permanent ban of all climbing within the area.

Therefore the climbing club urge every one that climbs in umeå (both locals and visitors) to go to some of the other areas around umeå to climb.

We do not want to be thrown out of this area forever!!

lördag 18 oktober 2008

söndag 12 oktober 2008

As we say in Sweden, "efter regn kommer sol".

Although on Saturday was not a climbing day, due to the pouring rain in the morning, it was still a good day.

I was very close to stay in front of the computer the whole day, but the sunshine after lunch lured me out of my cave.. for some blockhunting!

Here is some of what I found, just half an hours drive away:

I've not found a new Skravel or anything like that, but at least something interesting enough for me to go back this spring!

Sunday was climbing day. Myself, I didn't do anything worth mention, but Anders Björken was in good mood, repeating Björnkram and did Kunoichi, good work!

I also got to know that Per Lindmark is back big time after his knee injury. According to his own word it is not problem, as his latest project is only a roof problem.. around 8A/8B.. sick bastard!

Apparently Sofia Winsa is getting closer to sticking Bermuda Triangeln, 7B, hopefully I'll get back on that subject soon.
On my way back home from climbing I went for a short walk in the the forest around Röbäck.. seems now I have to start building myself a balcony!

Lucky for me Hasse really loves to cut boards.. so I'm quite sure he will help me.

fredag 10 oktober 2008

Disney on ice ...

... or at least IKSU has put themselves on ice!

A ‘rumor’ have told us that IKSU has stopped all plans of expanding the climbing areas, at least until 2010, and then some. In fact, it has been practically the same crag since the start in 1995, with some exceptions concerning the boulder areas, built by local non-profit forces.

It is actually quite remarkable that an organization, putting hundreds of new peoples through the annual climbing courses, doesn’t deserve a better facility. IKSU climbing have also to decline, practically, all other activities concerning school, youth, corporations and advanced trainings/activities due to the limitations of the climbing areas and the high amount of peoples training there on daily basis.

Some finds this quite rude for all non-profit workers, who have put a lot of effort and time over the years, making IKSU climbing what it is today. But IKSU has in some senses been fair, it has never been put on paper that a new area should be built, or at least it has not been put into action.

So, for anyone that will start a climbing gym in Umeå; I will pay full price, I will help you with building ALL constructions, I will help you calculate on costs, I will help you finding partners, I will ...

torsdag 9 oktober 2008

Humble Pie

It is a bit ironic that Climbing decieds to give good ol' Sweden a visit when we now have a hard time getting our hands on their magazine... well thank god for internet.

It seems like they had a great time on their short visit here, although they seemed some what confused about the swedish grades.

Sure one could argue that they focused to much on a few strangely graded routes or just chose to write much about it just to get a good story.

I mean they cannot be right.. right?

Or was this in fact an example of a part of the humble and brave swedish climbing society being caught bare naked? Just like that famous king in the story about the kings his new clothes?

Lets hope not.

Most likely there has been an missunderstanding and the conversion from swedish to american grades are not correct. Myself I should not be the judge, my only experience of hanging in a rope is a misserable atempt at a 6c route in Ringkallen last year.. lets just say the crux really showed me that I cannot crimp.

However, this article, and some comments about it on another page, do make me wonder if of us swedes are more concerened about keeping grades low, rather than correct?

tisdag 7 oktober 2008

Guides and topos around Umeå

Just testing the google maps

onsdag 1 oktober 2008

SBO news

Since, we aim to become the climber's news site/blog no. 1 of the world, we have to break promises to spread the word. Yet another SBO is expected (if we just show them some money)!

It's no idea to ask me for questions since I'm leached with a need to know restriction. I do not know where, when, who, why, or anything else ... I just know.

/The god cop.