måndag 8 september 2008

Little stone of Mosjön

It was a long time since a few boulders in the northern parts of Sweden caught soo much attention on the swedish speaking part of the world wide web as the ones in Mosjön did earlier this spring.

Considering the amount of debate regarding what was and what wasn't done on the rock, we kind of suspected that the place would be crowded.. well we didn't really.. after all Mosjön is located pretty far away from everything (if you don't count Örnsköldsvik and Umeå, that is). Also considering how under developed the area is, we are not surpised to find that during the summer and spring only a handful of visitors has been at the site so far.

In a hope to attract more climbers to this remote part of the world we have decieded publish some information about what has been done and what we are currently working on.

As this blog is brand spanking new we like to start out small.. with the small boulder of Mosjön.

This is the left side of the "little stone". Problem A, is a sit-down start called Volbeat (7A), that starts from a nice hand jam going out on some sweet slopers. This side of the rock offer plenty of room for new lines as well, we just haven't had time to take a closer look.

The front of the boulder is a steeper story..

Problem B is an open project (hence the green marking). We belive that a dyno to the slopers is the ticket.. we just don't know how to jump from the starting position..

Problem C is a lovely line with just five good holds on an overhanging face. Our problem is the distance between these holds and the lack of good places to put your feet.. the line is already considered a classic and it will probably land around 7C+ or harder.

Problem D is a nice areté, that is harder than it looks. This problem, Deliverence, is currently graded 6C+. Mr.FA thought that there must be a better beta.. we are still looking..

The right side of this boulder has one clear line. Which is as steep, as it is slopey.. we have been able to do it from a stand up start, giving a soft 7B called Soulweeper. The current version is really nice, but the sitstart is mind blowing.. as nice as is it hard. We guess 8A/8B and many stars on that one.

We hope that this will be of some interest to those of you that has been thinking about going up north to test this new area.

Next update will show some of the big roof in this area.. stay tuned!

5 kommentarer:

Anonym sa...

Kul me en ny bloggare!
Hur startar ni på soulweeper, Höger hand i det givna jättebra greppet eller? Men vart har ni vänster?


Linkan sa...

Jag kommer att lägga upp en film där Per Lindmark klättrar den under veckan.

Carlos sa...

Vad ni hittar på! Mosjön existerar inte. Jag har bott 15 år i Umeå och aldrig sett stället. Det jag inte sett i Ume finns inte.

Linkan sa...

Calle, du vill egentligen inte veta vad du missade i våras genom att aldrig haka på oss andra ner till Mosjön!

Följ inte den här bloggen! På med skygglapparna =)

Carlos sa...

Jag har sagt det! Sluta låtsas. MOSsJÖN FINNS INTE!